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Knotting technique is divided into knots, stitches and throws.
Knots are ropes twisted around themselves or another rope. Hitches are on one rope. Throws are ropes tied to a tree or beam. These definitions are guidelines, there are exceptions to the rule.
The flat knot
The flat knot is a knot that is very suitable for connecting two ropes of equal thickness. Do not use the flat knot to hold heavy loads, because under high pressure it is not reliable enough. For small jobs the knot is very suitable and quickly tied.
The figure eight stitch
The figure eight stitch is used to create a thickening in the end of a rope. This way you can prevent a rope from unraveling or slipping through an eye or knot.
The Weaver's Knot
The weaver's knot is used to tie two ropes of unequal thickness together. The bend is made in the thick rope, this is because the thick rope is harder to move and so that the thin rope winds around the thick one and is thus firmly attached.
Carpenter's stitch
A carpenter's hitch is used to fasten a rope to a round object. For example, the carpenter's hitch is used to fasten a rope to a beam or a bundle of branches so that they can be dragged. The hitch is also used to start a lashing.
Clove throw
With a clove hitch you can secure a rope to a round object. The rougher the object, the more friction the knot has and the better it will hold. The clove hitch is also used to end a lashing.
Thief's knot
The thief's knot is a variation on the flat knot. In the flat knot, the tension is on the ends that are directly opposite each other, in the thief's knot on the ends that are diagonally opposite each other.
Did you know:
You can use this knot to catch someone who was sneaking into a present. The knot looks very much like a flat knot, so the perpetrator will unsuspectingly close the package with that flat knot.
The Loose Noose
The loose noose is used to make an adjustable loop in a rope. The hitch can also be used to hang a beam in a rope to make a rope ladder for example, in this way it is called the galley hitch.
Clove hitch
The clove hitch is used to create a firm, non-tight loop at the end of a rope.
Mnemonic:
The rabbit comes out of its hole
He goes around the tree
And then goes back into his hole
Shearing line
The guy line is an application of the clove hitch, for example it is used as a replacement for the guy line of a tent.
Method:
Tie a bowline knot in one end of the rope
Insert the other end through the loop of the clove hitch
Then tie a bowline around the rope that goes through the loop (do this by going around the rope before the rabbit comes out of the hole)
Shortening stitch
The shortening stitch is used to temporarily shorten a rope.
Fisherman's knot
The fisherman's knot is a strong and reliable knot to tie two wet or slippery ropes together. This knot does not loosen in the water and the ropes remain in each other's extension. The disadvantage is that it is sometimes difficult to untie.
The hunter stitch
The hunter knot is used, like the flat knot, to tie two ropes of equal thickness together, but the hunter knot is stronger than the flat knot.
The butterfly knot
The butterfly knot is used to make a fixed loop in the middle of a rope. Since the two ends of the butterfly knot are horizontal, this knot is suitable as an intermediate knot when walking or climbing with rope groups. The big advantage here is that both ends can be loaded.
Decorative shortening
The decorative shortening is used to temporarily shorten a rope. Here one more loop is made than with the shortening stitch, so the rope will be shortened more. By using an analogous method shortening stitches with even more loops can be made.
The constrictor
The constrictor resembles a clove hitch and is used for the same purpose, namely to secure a rope to a round object. The constrictor is stronger than the clove hitch and stays in place better.
The blood knot
The blood knot is used to create a thickening in a rope.
Cross lashing
A cross lashing is used to connect two beams that are approximately perpendicular to each other. This is the basic lashing that is often used for constructions on large camps. Make sure you can lay it very well!
Method:
Start the lashing with a carpenter's hitch on the fixed pole, this is the pole that is already fixed in your construction. Place the loose pole above this starting knot.
Go with the rope over the loose pole, under the loose pole and under the fixed pole (see drawing) and pull, do this about 3-4 times. Make sure your rope is always under tension and always put that new winding on the inside.
The next step is 'wrestling'; turn the rope 1 time more than the number of lashings between both poles, perpendicular to the lashings. With each turn you must pull the wresting well, this is very important for the strength of the lashing.
Finish the lashing with a clove hitch on the loose pole. Be careful not to release the pressure on the sculling when laying the clove hitch.
Diagonal jorring
The diagonal jorring is used when two beams need to be attached to each other at a very diagonal angle.
Method:
Put a carpenter's hitch around both poles and pull it tight. It is best to put this hitch in the sharp corner of the diagonal crossing.
Make 3-4 turns around both posts in the direction perpendicular to the direction of the carpenter's hitch.
Make an equal number of strokes in the direction equal to the direction of the carpenter's stitch.
Then, as with cross lashing, lash 1 time more than the number of lashings between both poles.
Finish with a clove hitch.
Tri-peak Sjørring
The three-pole lashing is used to connect three poles together. This lashing is important for many constructions. If you cannot use trees, you can place two three-pole lashings opposite each other and then lash other beams to them.
Method:
Lay three poles of approximately the same size, with their bottoms at the same height, next to each other. Place a carpenter's hitch at the top of one of the outer poles.
Then you wind the rope around the beams in a figure eight movement, first you go above the beam, then under the one next to it, then above again, and so on (see drawing). You do this 3-4 times. You can make it easy for yourself by placing a cross beam under the tripod at the height of the place where you want to lash, then you have enough space above and below the beams to lash.
After this you dig, 1 times more than the number of lashings, between the beams to tighten the rope. Do not do this too hard, as the beams still have to be pulled apart easily.
To finish, place a clove hitch on the outermost pole where the carpenter's hitch is not located.
Straighten the beams; pull the middle pole back and swap the other 2. This way the middle beam will lie on the other 2 and you have a stable construction.
Did you know:
The principle of the three-pole lashing can also be used to connect multiple poles together.
Scaffolding lashing
The scaffolding lashing is used to connect two parallel poles to each other to create a longer whole.
The scaffolding lashing consists of two different partial lashings. These may not be too close to each other, so that the two beams are firmly attached to each other.
Method:
Start the lashing, at one end of the beam, with a carpenter's hitch around 1 beam.
Then wrap the rope 5-6 times around the 2 poles.
Turn, 1 time more than the number of turns, between the 2 bars.
To finish, place a clove hitch on the beam where the carpenter's hitch is not lying.
The scaffolding lashing consists of 2 different partial lashings so repeat the previous steps at the other end. This is very important because otherwise the beams can still move.
Header 6
The lashing platform
The platform lashing is used to secure the beams on a platform.
Method:
Make sure you have 2 cross beams that all the other beams rest on to make the platform.
Start with a carpenter's stitch at the beginning of a cross beam.
Wrap the rope around the beams in the same way as the cross lashing by wrapping the rope above and below the beams (see drawing).
When you reach the end, return in the same way. Now you have done the lashing once. Repeat the following steps again.
Stir, 3 times, between all the horizontal beams and the crossbeam (all in one go).
Finish with a clove hitch on the first horizontal beam.
This way you take 3-4-5 bars at a time.
